Virago XV535 Charging system fault

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ll81
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Virago XV535 Charging system fault

Post by ll81 » Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:44 pm

Off topic Newt but have you had any problems with the chraging systmem on your Viagra. I now know of two that blew the regy/rec and then burnt the charging coils out. Over £150 for the bits to fix it new, my mate shoved his old SLR650 alternator on his missuses and has so far had no probs. The fact it fits means it's probably the same part any way made by Denso or someone.

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Newtsalad
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Re: Cush Drive Rubbers

Post by Newtsalad » Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:24 pm

Oh, right, thats a good tip.
Funny thing is, I put 135w headlamp bulbs in the Vrigo and Su's little 125 Kwacka. I took Su's bike down to spain etc and all was well on full beam whole time.
The Vargo on the other hand, has been suffering dreadful flat battery, and I realise it won't power the 135w bulb and charge the battery. In fact, the headlamp is shite. I went out on the 6v CT200 with an ordinary headlamp bulb in it, and I reckoned it was better than the Virgo headlamp. SO now I'm slightly confused. Perhaps the coils are on their way out? :o :o :o :? :? :? :( :( :( :( :(

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Re: Cush Drive Rubbers

Post by Newtsalad » Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:27 pm

Any idea on checking it out? BTW I'll split the topic and put it up under other marques.....

Fuzz

Re: Virago XV535 Charging system fault

Post by Fuzz » Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:46 pm

Put a standard 60/55w headlamp bulb in.
Wait till its dark
Put the headlight on , close up to a wall.
rev the engine
If your Viragos charging , the headlight will get brighter & then regulate itself....

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Newtsalad
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Re: Virago XV535 Charging system fault

Post by Newtsalad » Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:47 pm

Cheers Fuzz, sounds like a plan.... :D

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ll81
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Re: Virago XV535 Charging system fault

Post by ll81 » Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:35 pm

As suggested drop back to a standard bulb, running with headlight on should see 14.4v-14.8v at the battery. You can unplug the genny output and probe across all 3 phases whilst the idle is turned up to keep the same revs for a while. Basically there are 3 coils in a delta config and just probe from each terminal to the other two terminals. This will give you 3 voltage readings that should all be very nearly the same. At higher revs (around the 5k mark) you should be able to easily get 50 volts AC out of each coil.

My mates missuses at revs had 25v on one coil and less than 12 on the other two. Under load that would have been no good to no-one. If all the coils have the same output unloaded plug the reggy/rec back in and measure again (AC). Same applies the voltage should be very near to the same on each coil, meters have a hard job reading the chopped AC from an alternator so depending on meter you may see 7-14 VAC. Important thing is if they're all the same reading and the battery voltage is 14.4v-14.8v DC then you have a good working charging system.

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Re: Virago XV535 Charging system fault

Post by Newtsalad » Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:11 pm

Great! Thanks for that! How good is a forum that sorts a problem before you even knew you had it! :lol: :lol: :lol:

I need to put the newly sprayed side panels on it, so maybe I'll give it a little fettle and even a run, tomorrow! :D :D :D

Cheers!

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Re: Virago XV535 Charging system fault

Post by Typhoon » Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:53 am

If you want decent lighting from a 12v bike, the only way to go is HID. Draws 35w but the best lighting I've ever ridden with. I've owned two bikes with HID now and will never go back. It also totally stopped people pulling out in front of me from side streets.
Image
As for charging, you should see more than 13v at the battery just off idle on any decent modern bike with everything off. Easiest way to check output.

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Re: Virago XV535 Charging system fault

Post by ll81 » Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:39 am

HID kick ass compared to halogen, an expensive upgrade but worth it.
Typhoon wrote:As for charging, you should see more than 13v at the battery just off idle on any decent modern bike with everything off. Easiest way to check output.
Allways need to be loaded as you need to know if it's working properly. Even a shagged genny with two burnt out coils can give good voltage readings with an unloaded electrical system.

Unloaded tests are good if your boiling away battery electolyte and blowing bulbs as you can see just how high the voltage is getting to ascertain if your regs not cutting in. Then bike off see the standing voltage of the battery. Generally silicone shorts when it blows so it's only vehicles with voltage controll adjusting magnetic flux via series current limit in the stator (CB400/4, [excitor and charge coils share fixed core] Lucas LRD100 dynamos and such) or armature (car alternator) that suffer with such a problem. Most bikes use a shunt system so when the reg fails it shorts internally so you loose all charge and in some cases burn the alternator out.

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