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But i had a little shock when i removed the rocker cover... CBF125 M9-A Engine on injection.

C'mon Al - that cam chain tensioner bolt on the outside was a giveaway.....

, Never saw it in the orig listing when it was up for sale, (Chap could not have been further away from the bike ) But hay, £150 for a 2006 cg with alloys and disk brake on ant bad, (with paperwork)
i have a ES motor sitting here, So thats getting pulled out and putting on ebay, should get ny money back on that.

The Sterlings' motor is a CG copy - all 230cc of it - stomps along very well. (luckily it's a straightforward carb model).

The missus CG is an ES but with wire wheels and drum brakes, still only has about 460 miles on the clock.

Have you noticed everything is getting roller rockers these days? I suspect it's preparation for a reduction in oil anti-wear additives like phosphorus. Car oil has already gone down this road.

Alan CF wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 28, 2017 12:35 pm

, Never saw it in the orig listing when it was up for sale, (Chap could not have been further away from the bike ) But hay, £150 for a 2006 cg with alloys and disk brake on ant bad, (with paperwork)
i have a ES motor sitting here, So thats getting pulled out and putting on ebay, should get ny money back on that.

I know you've recently had a tap on the head Al, but why on Earth would you take that engine out and put a ploddy old CG engine back in?????

My cg project..

Classic continental k112 and rb2 tyres

Early k1 frame with later swinging arm and disc front end and some polished bits

Electrical knowledge please

CG 125 B, same as K1 6v, two coil ND stator, points and condenser for ignition and produces AC current to the headlight, pilot, clock back light and tail light. Indicators, including clock repeater, rear stop and neutral lamp are DC fed from battery.

Currently I'm running a 35/35w halogen headlight, it's poor, though is a lot better since I connected the pilot light correctly to the ballast resistor ( I don't understand why, but is now as good as it will be).

I have a clever led which I believe runs within 6-50v and has hi/low beam, is the right fitting for the lamp holder (BA20D) and claims to 'shine as 55w halogen', using 7w. With AC a single wave rectifier is needed. I have two of them. When connecting to a 6v Dynamo, a 6v-12v inverter is required. I've got that also, though no actual instructions of the wiring schedule.

So what I have is ...

4 wires from stator plus the light green and red neutral switch
Black and white to the ignition switch from points on the stator.

Yellow
Pink
White & Yellow
From the left coil on the stator terminate in the headlight dimmer switch
From the switch to the headlamp is:

Blue: hi beam
White: low beam
Brown: pilot which is also wired via the ballast resistor.

I think the rectifier converts the AC to DC for the battery and the lamps as stated
The headlight is purely AC. To enable the LED I need to rectify the current of the hi and low, though can't work out which of the three wires.

Neither am I sure about how/where to connect the inverter, which has a +/- connector blocks either side of the module.

Potentially if it works I'll be able to use the CG after dark. Currently I wouldn't take the risk, with just a slight shadow on the road. Though before I sorted the ballast resistor, the light wouldn't even make it to the road

The CG wiring loom and diagram look probably as easy as it gets, though I am stuck in terms of understanding how it works and how I could improve.

Any help/knowledge/understanding would be gratefully appreciated

Has anyone got experience of the Pirelli MT75 tyre ? I'm considering one for the back on my CG Wannabe, but I don't know if they are any good. Cheers.

I Had Pirelli mt65,s on my old c-90,went over further in the wet then what was on it,in the dry,

I went over further in the wet as well. Got me shoulder down.

Bogger