Innova gearing

[Jon]

Yes, a Puig. I detest looking through plastic at night in the rain so last weekend I lowered it 65mm simply by making 4 new holes and spacing out the bottom fixings slightly so the bottom of the screen didn`t foul the headlamp/plastic. It overhangs the headlamp, but doesn`t seem to have made the fairly crap light any worse than it was

I have to say I didn't notice the same improvement in speed when I fitted a screen to my Innova that I did with the C90. I barely rode the ~Innova before fitting my Puig but where the speed gain was quite dramatic with the C90, there seemed to be no real gain on the ANF....Obviously better weather protection etc though..

I can see over mine quite easily as standard...I'm long in the body. I wouldn't like to lower mine as the screen would pick up more light from the headlamp and glow like a glowy thing at night!

[Mark Shelley]

...doesn`t seem to have made the fairly crap light any worse than it was

Is your Innova the injection or carb model?

It is injection. Headlamp is pretty good on full beam, but crap on dip.

[Vk/Leeds]

Hi, although I have tinkered with the sprockets plus 1 up front and also down 1 at back (not together though ) i'd leave the sprockets standard 14/35 and fit a wider 3.00/17" rear tyre which slots in has a larger circumference and speedo runs as good as is spot on with satnav not under as normal ! !
Works fine for me @ 15 stone little lad still growing ! ! when i'm off in the hills I simply swap & fit the normal or 2.75/17" tyre .
Cheers Vk. .

[Bill/Rubery]

When I read the lead message of this topic I started laughing! When I had a Royal Enfield 350cc...(Indian made)...I was on that make's forum. We used to get messages like this. we suggested that if the rider wanted to go faster then he should purchase a Fireblade!

[Jon]

...doesn`t seem to have made the fairly crap light any worse than it was

Is your Innova the injection or carb model?

It is injection. Headlamp is pretty good on full beam, but crap on dip.

It needs adjusting up as it sounds like your lamp is set too low. The main beam should not be 'pooling' on the road....It is best to have the main beam 'hot' centre just above the horizon so the flare gives you full road illumination. That way your dip will cut-off below car rear screens but still throw to it's limit. The main beam might seem less bright as it is no longer boring into the road in front but it will throw further and critically, and unlike the C90, there's enough to see by when it is set like that. It's quite a fussy job as it's a case of 'ride/test. tweak/ride/test etc until it's perfect as your weight when riding throws the angle out.

One advantage of getting the main well set is that cars actually bother to dip as they see the light 'leakage' from around the corner instead of ignoring you.

Mine is stellar. We have absolutely zilch lighting round my way so getting the most out of headlight adjustment is critical. My car's lamps are similarly carefully adjusted to the upper limit of the MOT range...Just as the Police cars used to do back in the day, so the dip beam would illuminate the number plate of the car in front but not quite flash over through the rear windscreen. Makes a HUGE difference.

Set up well, the injected Innova's lamp is good enough to allow normal speed riding at night, dip or main.

[Mark Shelley]

When I read the lead message of this topic I started laughing! When I had a Royal Enfield 350cc...(Indian made)...I was on that make's forum. We used to get messages like this. we suggested that if the rider wanted to go faster then he should purchase a Fireblade!

I have a few bigger bikes that are more than capable of cruising at 100mph if required. I currently have six bikes. As my riding is entirely on the flat it would be a sensible, almost free, improvement. I don`t see anything wrong with that. It would be more rediculous to purchase a Fireblade specifically for a 10 mile commute.

[Mark Shelley]

Hi, although I have tinkered with the sprockets plus 1 up front and also down 1 at back (not together though ) i'd leave the sprockets standard 14/35 and fit a wider 3.00/17" rear tyre which slots in has a larger circumference and speedo runs as good as is spot on with satnav not under as normal ! !
Works fine for me @ 15 stone little lad still growing ! ! when i'm off in the hills I simply swap & fit the normal or 2.75/17" tyre .
Cheers Vk. .

My intention is to alter the gearing in the opposite direction in the hope that 4th gear is more useable. albeit revving higher at any given road speed.

[digger06]

done the same on my zrx12, it was originally gear for around 180!!!stupid really....
geared it for a more sensible 165 ish, (its a naked bike, albeit a powerfull one)
what a different, more useable power, increased acceleration,
exactly the same top speed, but gets there awfull quicker, vast improvement,

most of my big singles were the oposite, revved out far too quick,
went smaller on the rear sprocket, same acceleration, and better top speed,
lots of bikes are near enough on gearing, but personal taste, weight, riding style and types of riding can
mean a change can be a plus

[Jon]

done the same on my zrx12, it was originally gear for around 180!!!stupid really....
geared it for a more sensible 165 ish, (its a naked bike, albeit a powerfull one)
what a different, more useable power, increased acceleration,
exactly the same top speed, but gets there awfull quicker, vast improvement,

Yes, and that's the rub...Same top speed. the downside for small engined machines is that the motor will be spinning faster and that is always going to be less desirable when the oil is cold....The old '90% of engine wear during the first few minutes of starting' scenario. Honda raised the gearing on the 'street only' Waves and then lengthened the stroke dramatically to cope precisely to cut cold start wear...All part of the new emissions requirements but the benefit for us is longevity of engine components.

Our poster wanted more speed but like i said, you're not really changing the power so it'll go pretty much the same speed irrespective of the gearing as the factors cancel out.

[Mark Shelley]

done the same on my zrx12, it was originally gear for around 180!!!stupid really....
geared it for a more sensible 165 ish, (its a naked bike, albeit a powerfull one)
what a different, more useable power, increased acceleration,
exactly the same top speed, but gets there awfull quicker, vast improvement,

Yes, and that's the rub...Same top speed. the downside for small engined machines is that the motor will be spinning faster and that is always going to be less desirable when the oil is cold....The old '90% of engine wear during the first few minutes of starting' scenario. Honda raised the gearing on the 'street only' Waves and then lengthened the stroke dramatically to cope precisely to cut cold start wear...All part of the new emissions requirements but the benefit for us is longevity of engine components.

Our poster wanted more speed but like i said, you're not really changing the power so it'll go pretty much the same speed irrespective of the gearing as the factors cancel out.

If that were true, why do you need to change down into a head wind or on a hill, infact why do bikes have gears at all?